Sunday, June 14, 2009

An Interview with A.P.C.

Originally published on by Eugene Kan

Have there been any particular cities or regions in the world beyond the normal associations such as Tokyo and Paris which have caught your interest on a fashion level?

Yes, probably Northern European cities, Copenhagen.

Do you think it comes down to their culture?

Yes, that is a good point. Maybe it comes down to their capacity of accepting and they have a good educational system. From the very beginning they are educated in nice buildings. There is something about harmony that make them look well. There isn’t such a great reliance on brands when it comes to fashion.

What are your current thoughts on the current popularity of American contemporary menswear brands?

There are quite a few good things to come from this. Thom Browne is doing a good job in shaping and proportions. Although in the US, they have too many problems with menswear, the American body is just impossible. It’s impossible to have a huge man look elegant, that’s why in Asia they’re usually more handsome because the proportions are better. In America, they are obsessed in sports. Sometimes you go to Los Angeles, big chest and broad shoulders with skinny legs. So I think that’s a problem in menswear. Second problem is Thom Browne and Tom Ford pricing is too expensive.

How do you feel about the statement about A.P.C. regarding “we make noise not clothes”?

It’s true but it’s not true. If you stop making news, you’re “dead”. Sometimes you need to make some news, under the radar noise. Not too loud but you do have to make some noise. It’s very hard to do and sometimes you need to be both within and outside fashion.

We’ve seen a steady move towards fast, accessible fashion such as H&M, Zara and Uniqlo among others, what are your thoughts on that and what effect does it have on a brand like A.P.C.?

It has no effect on A.P.C.. I respect those people cause they have a great sense of logistics and production. But sometimes I hate them because the quality they use is very poor and it is disrespectful to the masses. Sometimes you put something on from them and you stink cause the fiber they use makes you smell “wrong”. While there’s no denying they copy people for their looks, but the problem is they copy too quickly. Patterns aren’t well done and the cuts aren’t good. Their communications relative to their money should hire better photographers and art directors. They have a great capacity for product too bad their efforts are wasted on poor quality offerings. I really mean that but I have a huge respect for them, it’s like running a country what they do. But there’s a lack of thinking.

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